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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.